Quilted Tate Jacket

Melissa will teach this cute Tate using a pre-quilted, double sided fabric. It is self-lined, and all seams and edges are finished with bias bindings. This modification uses both View A and View B of the Tate pattern to make a short double breasted jacket. Melissa removes the collar to allow for this simple style. It is recommended that you make your own bias, as pre-purchased bias tape is likely not the correct width. You will learn many techniques like how to make bias, how to properly finishes seams with bias, how to make sharp corners, and how to install bias into a curved seam.

This quilted coat is just darling and perfect for the cooler days of fall and winter. Below are written instructions directly following the 3-series videos.

Supplies

Children’s Corner Tate pattern Pre-quilted fabric - Fabric requirements — use View A lining of Tate (see link for chart) Coordinating fabric for bias bindings — 1/2 yard (See how to quilt your own fabric in this video!) Bias tape maker (3/4") — Red (18mm) Covered Buttons (5/8") — 4 or 6 depending on size

Drafting Instructions

1. Trace pattern pieces for View B front (#7), View B back (#9) and sleeve (#12). Include all pattern markings.

2. Front — Trim pattern along fold line at center cutting away the facing. Trim away 1/4" seam allowance at neck edge. Straighten point at neck edge making a squared corner.

3. Back — Trim pattern at center back line. Mark this new edge “cut on fold”. Trim away 1/4" seam allowance at neck.

4. Sleeve — Trim pattern across lower edge fold line.

5. Length — Refer to pattern back cover to find the View A finished length for your size. Add 1/4" to this number. Find the uppermost point of the shoulder at neck edge on the front pattern piece. Measure this length straight down toward the lower edge and draw a line straight across. Trim away pattern at this line to shorten the front pattern piece. Repeat for back pattern piece.

Cutting

6. Cut out fabric with 3 new pattern pieces taking care to make sure quilting lines are straight.

7. Stay stitch 1/8" from edge around each cut fabric piece to secure the quilting threads.

8. Cut bias strips 1½" wide. Use bias tape maker and an iron to make 3/4" bias tape. Fold and press this tape in half lengthwise to make double folded bias tape. The finished width of the bias tape will be 3/8".

Construction: Bound Seams

9. Stitch both shoulder seams with right sides together. If desired, zig zag seam edge using a stitch width of 5 and length of 2. This will reduce the bulk of the seam allowance when joining 2 quilted fabrics.

10. Cut 2 pieces of bias tape the length of the shoulder seams.

11. Unfold bias tape and line up one long raw edge with the zig-zagged edge of the shoulder seam. Pin in place. Stitch bias to shoulder seam along the previous stitching line.

12. Wrap folded bias around the shoulder seam allowance and pin in place. Bias should fit snugly around the seam allowance. Topstitch along the front of the bias 1/16" from the stitched edge being sure to catch the edge of bias on the backside.

13. Press seam towards the back. Repeat for other shoulder seam.

14. Stitch 2 rows of lengthened stitching along the upper curved edges of sleeves between X’s. Pin sleeve in place to shoulder edge with right sides together, matching fronts and backs and sleeve dot to shoulder seam. Pull up threads to make seams fit and stitch in place. Remove gathering stitches. Zig –zag seam allowance.

15. Follow steps #10-12 above to stitch bias strips to both armhole seam allowances stretching the bias slightly along the curves. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve.

16. Place front and back jacket with right sides together matching raw edges at side seams and sleeve seams. Follow steps #10-12 above to stitch bias to both of the side seam allowances ensuring that the raw edges of the previously bound seams under the arm are stitched within the new bound seam. Press seam allowances toward the back.

Construction: Bias Bounds Edges

17. Cut 2 bias strips the length of the jacket center front edge. Follow steps #10-12 above to stitch bias strip to both center front edges.

18. Measure neck edge and cut a bias strip 1/2" longer. Iron this strip into a curve.

19. Beginning at the center back pin the unfolded strip along raw edge of the neck right sides together. Leave at least 1/4" of bias strip extending past each end of the neck curve. Slightly stretch the bias strip to fit snugly around the neck curve. Pin all the way around and stitch in place.

20. Fold the bias strip back upon itself lengthwise (right sides together) at the end of the neck bias lining up the 2 folded edges. Stitch across this short end of the bias strip using a 1/4" seam allowance. This seam will be in line with the center front edge of the jacket. Trim the seam to 1/8". Turn right sides out and push out the point at the corner. Do the same for the other end of bias at the neck.

21. Fold over the neck bias to the inside of the jacket and topstitch in place 1/16" from the stitched edge catching the back side of the bias as you stitch.

22. Cut a bias strip the length of the lower edge of the jacket plus 1/2". Follow steps #19-21 to stitch bias to hem edge.

23. Turn sleeves inside out. All sleeve stitching and pinning will be done on the inside of the sleeve.

24. Measure sleeve edge. Cut 2 bias strips each 1/2" longer than this measurement.

25. Unfold one bias strip. Pin and stitch the 2 short ends with right sides together forming a circle. Press seam open.

26. Pin this bias strip inside the sleeve with right sides together lining up all raw edges and placing bias seam at sleeve seam. Stitch in place.

27. Wrap the folded edge of the bias around the sleeve and stitch in place 1/16" from the stitched edge being sure to catch the bias in the back. Repeat for the other sleeve binding.

28. Work buttons and buttonholes on front of jacket. Move each existing buttonhole placement over 1/4" so that the ends of the buttonholes are 1/2" from the jacket edge. Also, move each existing buttonhole placement down 1/8".

Instructions by Melissa Sansom

Click the printer icon below for printable version.