Jane Ruffle Double Border

When we saw this beautiful eyelet double border fabric we thought it belonged on your girl on the beach. Children’s Corner Jane seemed like a great dress suited for this style. Double border fabrics have a design or a finish along both selvages of the fabric. Often the motif can tell a continuous story when used properly in the garment. Placing these designs along the border at the hemline makes the fabric versatile for many different size garments. In most cases you would turn up a slight hem at the bottom of the design. With this eyelet double border, however, there was the added bonus that down each selvage was a finished eyelet edge. By cutting the front and back dress pieces properly we wouldn't have to hem the dress! To add some softness, we chose to use one side of the border as the neck ruffle. In this tutorial, we walk you through how to change the orientation of your front and back dress pieces so you can best use the border.

Supplies

Children’s Corner Jane or similar pattern Fabric requirements – for double border, you need two widths of widest part of dress. Lining – Refer to the dress fabric requirements based on the standard cutting layout of the Jane or Kwik Sew 213 Raglan Dress pattern

Cutting Instructions

1. Prewash both your fabric and your lining.

2. Choose your preferred edge of fabric to use for skirt hem. Each edge of the fabric used for this dress is different so its important to cut the dress in the same direction. The other edge of the border will be used for the ruffle.

3. You need to cut this project out cross-grain Unfold your fabric. Fold your fabric perpendicular to the selvage (border edge). Line up the hemline (make sure to exclude hem allowance) of the dress at the edge of the fabric. Cut out the front of the dress and the back of the dress. Continue cutting your side seam down off the edge of the fabric.

4. Cut out the front and back lining following cutting layout in pattern.

5. Measure top edge of the dress front and back. Also, measure the top of the sleeve pattern piece (x2). Add these measurements. Cut a ruffle this length and 3-4” wide depending on size.

Construction Instructions

1. Stitch side seams of dress with right sides together. Finish seams. Repeat with lining.

2. Sew dress to lining at armholes with right sides together. Trim seams. Turn right side out and press. Baste dress to lining 1/2” from top edge around neckline on front and back of dress.

3. Stitch the ruffle ends with right sides together and finish this seam.

4. Pin the ruffle right side up to the right side of the dress. Start pinning with the ruffle seam at the center back and then the center of the ruffle to the center front neckline. 5. Continue pinning the ruffle to the front and back neckline. Remember you will have extra ruffle in the sleeve area.

5. Serge across top of entire ruffle and neckline.

6. Press down the serged edge of the ruffle 1/2”.

7. Create casing by sewing 1/2” from neck edge starting and stopping at center back leaving an opening for elastic. Cut elastic according to pattern. Run ¼” elastic through the casing. Topstitch remainder of casing. Remove basting.

8. Hem lining per pattern with 1” hem.

Adapted by

Cathy Jones

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