Bishop Smocked Sleeve with Edging

The traditional Bishop dress usually features smocking on the sleeve. The smocking sits nicely around the bicep (for short) or wrist (for long) of the child. Finishing the edge is an opportunity to add a fine lace or Swiss edging. Adding this delicate addition is very easy with these short steps and can be completed on your machine. No handwork required!

Instructions

1. Cut out short smocked sleeve or the long sleeve.

2. Sew the sleeve into the front and back dress pieces according to the instructions.

3. Pleat the sleeve according to the instructions. It is important to pleat your sleeve prior to attaching edging/lace because the edging cannot go through pleater when pleating the edge of the sleeves.

4. Flatten out the sleeve allowing the fabric to lie flat.

For Swiss Edging

5. Stitch the edging using a rolled hem by machine. Stitch to the bottom edge of the right side of the sleeve.

6. Place the right side of the edging to the right side of the sleeve. Stitch the Swiss edging to the sleeve using ¼” seam allowance. Trim seam allowance to 1/8” and finish edge with a zig zag stich of 4 (width) X 1 (length).

For Lace Edging

7. Place lace edging on sleeve with right side together and raw edge of lace 1/8” away from raw edge of fabric. Roll and whip lace to sleeve by machine using 4 (width) X 1 (length) catching lace header and raw edge of fabric.

8. Press Swiss/Lace edging flat and seam allowance towards sleeve.

9. Complete your Bishop according to the instructions in the pattern.

Technique by Susan Whitman

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