Add Smocked Insert to Lucy
Updated: Nov 5
Follow this tutorial to add a smocked insert to the classic Children’s Corner Lucy! Instructions below use the Lucy pattern released in 2019. The same techniques can be used for Taylor or Lillian.
Shop the Look
Pattern: Lucy Fabric: Berry Gingham by Fabric Finders Piping: Stop Red Lining: Black Gingham by Fabric Finders Smocking Plates: Mouth of the South and Rolling Hearts by Cross Eyed Cricket DMC Floss: Blanc, 310, 321 (Purchase Match Your Floss and note number.)
Buttons: Cherry Plastic Buttons*Available at childrenscornerstore.com while supplies last.
Supplies
Children's Corner Lucy
All fabric and supplies for pattern
Completed smocked insert
1 yard of mini piping in addition to pattern requirement
Tracing paper and ruler
Glue Pen, Tensisters Piping Tool and Tiger Tape (all optional)
Instructions
1. Trace a full copy of the dress front (not on fold). Mark center front.
2. Measure from high point of shoulders down according to the chart below and make dots on the front dress pattern piece.
Size | Distance down from shoulder high point |
|---|---|
3-6mo | 3 ½ in |
12mo | 3 ¾ in |
18-24mo | 4 in |
3 | 4 ½ in |
4 | 4 ¾ in |
5-6 | 5 in |
3. Draw a line across the dress front across the dots. This will be your insert placement line.
4. Cut out all dress pieces except for the dress front.
5. Place the full front pattern piece onto fabric and cut a block of fabric that is 1 inch wider and 2-3 inches longer than the dress front.
6. Measure down from top edge of fabric block 5-7 inches and draw a line perpendicular to the top edge. Cut fabric along this line. You will have one small and one large rectangle block.
7. Trim seam allowance of mini piping to ¼ inch.
8. With right side up matching raw edges, use glue stick to secure piping along the lower edge of the small rectangle. Stitch piping in place along piping stitch line. Press seam allowance toward fabric.
9. Repeat step 8, stitching piping to the upper edge of the large fabric rectangle.
10. Ensure that smocked insert is tied off to desired size and blocked. Keep pleating threads in place for now. It is ideal if the insert width is shorter than the length of the insert placement line on the full front dress pattern piece, but longer inserts can be used as long as smocked picture designs are not cut off by the armhole.
11. If insert is not long enough to reach across front dress, cut 2 small fabric rectangles that are 4 in wide by the height of your smocked insert.
12. Glue or pin one small fabric rectangle right sides together with the insert, matching the left-side raw edge. Stitch together (pleated side up) next to the first pleat. Repeat with the second rectangle on the right-side edge. Press seam away from the insert.
13. Straighten and secure pleats with either a row of cables on each holding row or with Tiger Tape placed above and below smocking. If pleats are not stable, stitch along Tiger Tape edge with a shortened stitch length to further secure pleats.
14. Mark center of insert at upper and lower edge. Mark centers of piped fabric rectangles.
15. Apply fabric glue along raw edge of piping on the smaller rectangle piece. Place this on top of the insert (both right sides up) aligning center marks. Piping edge should be just above the first smocked row. Adjust pleats to be straight and even and finger press piping in place. Unfold piped fabric to expose piping seam line. Stitch along this seam line.
16. Repeat step 15 to stitch large piped rectangle to the lower edge of the insert. Match centers and ensure that pleats are straight top to bottom prior to stitching.
17. Trim upper and lower seam allowances on insert to ¼ inch. Zig -zag or serge raw edges. Press fabrics away from insert. Remove pleater threads.
18. Place full front dress pattern piece on top of large fabric block with insert. Align top of insert with placement line on pattern. Pin pattern piece in place and cut out dress front.
19. If the smocked insert falls in the armhole space draw armhole onto pleated fabric. Stitch with a stitch length of 1.5 along this drawn line. Repeat stitching directly next to first stitching line. This will secure the pleats. Then trim very close to stitching and repeat the process for the other armhole. Cut out dress front.
20. To reduce bulk at the seam, pull ¼ inch of cording out from the piping at the end. Trim cording and flatten out piping. Repeat for 3 other ends of piping on the front dress.
21. Construct dress according to pattern.
Instructions by Melissa Sansom
Click the printer icon below for printable version.