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Sew Along: lillian with overlay

In this new Sew Along, Susan will show you to add an overlay to Lillian for a new look. She will be sewing from our newly released Lillian, which has a wider range of sizes (18mo - 14) but you can work from an older printing of Lillian as well. This sew along premieres at May 5th at 10AM Central.

Supplies

Children’s Corner Lillian 
Tissue Paper
Pencil

Drafting Instructions

1. Trace the top front of Lillian just pass the armhole curve.

Refer to the chart below for the following steps:
2. Measure the shoulder cutting line starting at the neckline. Place a dot at that distance on the shoulder line.

Lillian Overlay 1

3. Measure at the center front of the neckline down the distance for your size and place a dot.

Lillian Overlay 2

4. Measure from the dot in step 2 toward the armhole the distance for your size. This dot is parallel to the center front dot.

Lillian Overlay 3


5. Connect the dots.

Lillian Overlay 4

6. Optional slit at center front.  Measure down from the center front the distance for your size and place a dot. At the center front neckline measure over ¼” and place a dot. Connect these 2 dots with a straight line.

Lillian Overlay 6

7. This is your new overlay! Cut one on the fold.

Lillian Overlay chart

Construction

8. Transfer the lines for the center slit to the wrong side of the overlay. Stitch corded piping to the outer edges of the overlay. Press the piping seam allowance to the wrong side of the overlay.

9. Put the overlay onto the front of the Lillian dress. Match neckline and shoulder seams. Use several pins so that it won’t shift as you are stitching.

10. Stitch the overlay in place by topstitching in the ditch where the piping is attached to the overlay. Trim away the dress fabric that is behind the overlay.

Note: If you prefer to not have the slit at the neckline then continue with the Lillian instructions to complete the dress.

11. For the recently revised Lillian. Continue with construction through step 4. If using the original instructions, continue until you are ready to stitch the neckline. At that point follow steps 5 and 6.

12. With the right sides of the dress together, stitch the neckline. When you come to the V lower your stitch length to 1.5. Pivot at the top corner, stitch to the point, pivot and take 1 stitch. Now pivot again and stitch up the V and stop ¼” from the edge. Reset the stitch length to normal. Pivot one more time and continue around the neckline.

13. Trim and clip around the neck. Cut down the V all the way to the point. Clip the corners at the top of the V.

14. Turn right side out and press. Continue with construction following the Lillian instructions.


Adaptation by
Susan Whitman

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