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Sew along: Becky from Lillian

We have heard from many of you how much you love our out-of-print pattern, Becky. In this new Sew Along, Susan will show you have to make Becky from Lillian. She will be sewing from our newly released Lillian, which has a wider range of sizes (18mo - 14) but you can work from an older printing of Lillian as well. She pairs the top with a contrasting band along the hem of Parker's Pants.

Supplies Used in this Video

Children’s Corner Lillian (most recent printing)
Children’s Corner Parker's Pants
Ready made piping - assorted colors
Ruler (18" x 2")
Bias Tape maker (1/2") 
Felted Wool Pressing Mat (13.5" square)
Kai Scissors (6.5")
Tracing Paper
French curve


Drafting

1. Using the chart below as the new lengths for the Lillian, trace the front dress, back dress, and back lining pieces. Measure from high point on shoulder to the new shorter length. Mark center back and buttonholes.

Lillian_Becky_chart1

2. On the front pattern piece at the bottom edge measure from the center front to the side. Multiply that number by 2. Now divide that number by 3. From the side cutting line measure that distance and place a dot at the bottom front. Draw a line from that dot (perpendicular) to the bottom edge. Refer to the chart.

Lillian_Becky_chart2

3. According to the chart, measure away from that line along the bottom edge and place 2 new dots. 

Lillian_Becky_chart3

4. Draw a line from the new dots to the top of the line to form a V. This will be the stitching line for the slit.

Cutting Instructions

5. Cut newly revised front and back dress pieces from fabric and lining. Mark the V’s on the wrong side of the newly drafted dress front.


6. Cut 2  1” strips of fabric for the bows. 

Lillian_Becky_chart4

Construction

7. Stitch shoulder seams of the outer fabric and lining. Press seams open.

8. Stitch optional corded piping on the neckline. Ease the piping on and off ¼” pass the fold line. Pull about ½” of the cording out on each end of the piping and clip off.

9. If sewing with an older version of Lillian, skip this step. Stitch the back lining to the back of the dress with right sides together. Match shoulder seams and press along the foldline. The dress fabric will be wider than the lining and will fold to the inside to form a facing.

10. Stitch the neckline and armholes with right sides together. Trim and clip seams.

11. With the fabric still right sides together, stitch across each back at the bottom.

12. Stitch the front and front lining together across the bottom with right sides together. When you get to the lines for the slit lower your stitch length to 1.5. Stitch to the point, pivot and stitch one stitch at the top then pivot again and continue to the bottom. Continue to the other V (reset your stitch length to normal) and continue across the front.

13. Trim the seams across the bottom front and back. Cut up to the point of the V and clip outside corners.

14. Turn right side out, pulling the backs through the shoulder seams. Press and use a point turner at the corners.

Side Seams

15. Place right side of the back with the right side of the front. Leave lining loose. Match underarm seam and bottom seam. Continue placing the lining together for a few inches at the bottom the underarm seam. Stitch starting on the lining and stop on the lining, leaving 4 – 5”open on the lining.

16. Reach through from the other open side and pull the stitched side out. You will be able to complete the first side seam. Turn right side out and press.

17. Repeat step 2. You will need to whip stitch the remaining 4 – 5” of the lining.

Ties

18. Lightly starch the strips of fabric. Fold the 1” strip in half lengthwise and press. Unfold and fold each edge to the center and press. Fold again, matching the two folded edges. ( this step can also be done with a ½” bias tape maker)

19. Top stitch along the folded edges. Repeat with the other strip.

20. Tie the two bows and tie the ends in a knot to add weight. Tac in place by hand or machine at the top of the slit.

21. Work buttonholes and stitch buttons in place.

Adaptation by
Susan Whitman

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